Southern Stars
Throughout my childhood, I was surrounded by the songs of Crosby, Stills, Nash, and occasionally Young. For years I detested their music. I hated the incoherent lyrics and strange melodies. As I grew older and my studies of music nurtured my taste I came to realize the brilliance of their music. The confusing sounds resolved into delicate harmonies. The country tones became more familiar and warm. I finally figured out what the heck they were saying.
Among CSN’s repertoire, one song always puzzled me; Southern Cross. Having spent my entire life in the Northern Hemisphere I was loosely familiar with our local constellations, but I had never witnessed the Southern Cross so wistfully sung by Stills. That was until I ventured to Western Australia.
Nestled in the heart of Western Australia, about two hours north of Perth lies a celestial wonderland: Pinnacles National Park. Don’t get me wrong, the park and the surrounding areas are beautiful during the day as well, but when the Sun gracefully exits the scene the true spectacle takes center stage.
I embarked on this unforgettable journey from Perth with Lumineer Adventure Tours. This small outfit packed two small vans worth of eager tourists early in the morning to begin our adventure North. Among the crew were Marisa, a Spanish teacher from Spain, and Raj, an Aussie from Melbourne in town for business. These two would become my close companions as we made the two-hour drive out to our first stop: the dunes.
Our guides brought us to the edge of a seemingly vast desert. After climbing the nearest dune our guides handed us our way down - a sandboard. More accurately just a plank of wood with a rounded front end and a small brace at the back. Having some experience on a longboard I gave it my best to surf the board down but quickly realized my folly as the fine sand became well acquainted with my face. After another attempt or two, I swallowed my pride, made like the others, and rode down seated.
Marisa and Raj were equally eager to show the dunes who’s boss and made the runs down several times. Seated, of course.
Just as we entered the park we took a quick stop at the local visitor center. A small and mildly interesting stop with one big hit - my first time seeing a kangaroo. I had figured they’d be as rampant as deer in my hometown of Potomac but this was the first time seeing one after a week in Australia. I want to make the experience out like some great encouter, but in truth it was just idling in a bush eating some leaves. It ignored us and our company completely, but did make for a decent photo and an eternal memory.
Our appetites peaked and our kangaroos seen we made our way deeper into the park. Luckily, we had planned to have an hour or two of daylight after entering the park, so my new friends and I meandered around the low-laying pinnacle formations, enjoying their ancient beauty. The thick aroma of grilling meat brought us back to our company, however, as our hosts were grilling in full swing. From sizzling meats to fresh salads and local wine, every bite was savored watching the sun drop behind the nearby pinnacles.
Darkness soon arrived, and with it the main event - the mesmerizing souther sky ablaze with countless stars. While the guides rounded up much of the group to look through their large telescope my new friends and I gathered for some astro-photography. In this Bortle 1 zone, free from light pollution, the stars shone with unparalleled brillaince, which made for a stunning backdrop for some amateur light painting and portraits.
In all of my planning, I suspected this would be the one night I’d want a New Moon and I was fully correct in my assumption. I’m sure there is beauty in a moon-lit night, but I cannot recommend enough taking this voyage on a moonless night. It was on this night I got to witness in the clearest possible way the Southern Cross. The namesake of a song I came to love and the now cherished memories of my childhood.
My only regret for the night was not taking more shots of the galactic core. That being said, the stars will always shine, but the memories of my friends may not. The photos we took will help keep them alive just a bit longer.
As the night drew to a close, it was time for our long ride back to civilization. While most of my fellow adventurers slept soundly in the back, I stayed up chatting with our guide. About the starts. About our lives. About the future.
Safe travels, fellow adventurers!
